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Imagine that you enter the Milan Museum of Contemporary Art Pac to catch the autumn show of death and to see Carla Bruni on a high base that was cast in sculptural dress that was poured on the floor of recycled leather fragments and a needle as a symbol of craft coat. It was quite a sight and made an instruments when there was ever one.
This installation of the artist Nelly Agassi, however, reflected the owner Diego Della Valles goal of his life – to celebrate the ceremonial craftsmanship of the brand’s craftsmen.
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Creative Director Matteo Tamburini has accepted Della Valle’s vision and has developed its designs with increasing trust since his arrival in the brand at the end of 2023.
The autumn collection was one step further in his story and it was convincing. He was inspired by the museum and its history and explained behind the stage how the venue was built in the early 1950s and was destroyed in 1993 in a terrorist attack. His renovation thus symbolizes “resistance and rebirth from its roots”, similar to the evolution of the brand, while it remains true to his heir. As a space that shows art, Tamburini looked at the artists Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri and Lucio Fontana, but warned that inspiration was not literally, but researched “how they treated the substances”.
Cue a beautiful brushed alpaca coat with black and white swirls, which are reminiscent of an abstract painting by Accardi or Fontana’s technical severity, which are reflected in the sharp and structured tailor-made coats. These also came in a new double -breasted style in Mohair, where the buttons were more positioned on the side of the coats, which modernized the classic garment. The silhouette was extended and formfitation.
A cotton trench with a printed furry texture had a trumpe -l’oeil effect. For a more traditional look, Irina Shayk wore a beautiful belt ditch in leather that spoke volumes about Tod’s specialist knowledge.
Tamburini continued to use the best Pashmy wild leather or the NAPA in bombers and used two-layer cashmere in excessive pepeacoats with leather details.
Tods Gommino was revised in Nicker Python, and the brand’s shared apartment boot was reinvented as a brushed Chelsea boots, which flanked several riding boots.
The patchwork on the DI -BAG folio in Maxi and small versions was also inspired by the artistic installation and the waves were made lighter and softer.
As Della Valle said before the show, with the craftsmanship intelligence: “We focus on men at the center of the stage, and machines will never replace our craftsmen.” Still the creative directors who conduct a brand with conviction and fresh ideas.
Start gallery: Tod’s autumn 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection
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